荒城虚照碧山月，梁王宫阙今安在（二）永城篇

从1号甬道入内，车马室、棺床室、东西宫、庖厨室、储藏室等均已不稀奇，其中摆了些兵器陶罐的复制品。按生前规制，复建有贮冰室、沐浴室和卫生间。所有的文物都已被移入博物馆，只有墓室本体是真品。卫生间中的洁具也是真品，堪称中国最早的蹲坑，虽然现在看起来毫不起眼，在两千年前只有王室宗族才能享受的无上奢侈品。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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棺椁出人意料地位于北侧一个石台上，顶部留有朱砂痕迹。墓室回廊的南侧有一通道，直通梁孝王墓室，被后人称为“相思道”，夫妻二人可在阴间相会。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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不断有游客团入内，可以随时蹭讲解。沿西侧的3号甬道走出墓室，抬头处的崖壁上有一处并不大的盗洞，看来探穴十分精准。其实芒砀山汉墓群基本十室九空，从曹操开始就有官方的盗墓团队如发丘中郎将、摸金校尉等以补充军资。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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沿王后墓后的山路上行，两侧崖下有明显的挖矿痕迹，此处也应该是某矿厂在开山过程中意外发现了汉墓，随后加以保护。汉墓群所在的山体称为安山或保安山，山顶有唐代始建的芒山寺，供奉泰山奶奶即碧霞元君。经重修，无甚看点。下山进入梁孝王墓。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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虽然梁孝王墓的规模还不及王后，但却是首个采用拱顶的墓室。解说词中，该墓室可能改变中国古代建筑史，因为拱顶风格由西域传入。张骞通西域是在汉武帝统治期间，作为文帝之子、景帝之弟的梁孝王刘武已薨。我认为比较合理的解释是，梁孝王封地距离楚地不远，加之本人“好营宫室苑囿之乐”《西京杂记》，所以染上了想象力奇诡的楚风。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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梁孝王墓的墓室相对简单，随葬之物已被曹操洗劫而空，据说得金银珠宝72船，养兵三年。墓室前曾有大型地上建筑物，为前朝后寝格局，现已全部损毁。梁孝王的身世令人同情，在景帝初年平定“七国之乱”中居功至伟，在窦后努力之下，景帝也曾戏言“兄终弟及”。但最后败于刘彻之手，郁郁而终。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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景区南门处有一处精致的王陵，系刘武长子梁共王刘买之墓。其中的国宝级文物“四神云气图”线条优美流畅、图案华美生动，以青龙白虎朱雀玄武四象为主旨，缭绕以云气和绶带，出土时色彩艳丽。目前原壁画整体切割保存在河南博物馆中，是镇馆之宝之一，也是中国迄今为止发现的唯一大型汉代墓室壁画。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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进入墓室后却大失所望，管理方居然在切割后的墓室壁上刷了一层厚厚的水泥，然后人工绘制了四神云气图，这何止是狗尾续貂，更是对文化赤裸裸的破坏!¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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离开保安山景区，错误地选择了南门，却无意中见到了最原生态的豫东农村生活。低矮的石墙有些残破，枯枝蔓于瓦屋之上，羊、犬等牲畜或立或行于泥泞的道路。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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正碰上新人办喜事，村里男女老幼都聚在一起，满满当当地占据了大半条马路。一旁数口不锈钢大锅，咕嘟冒着香气，大块的猪肉、羊肉在锅中翻腾，鼻头发红的厨子在风中游走，不停加着各类佐料，用油腻的黑布抹去额头的汗滴。为避免过快冷却，红油汤面上漂着一层塑料薄膜，脚下污水横流，但没有人太关心是否卫生，大家脸上都洋溢着单纯的快乐。简易的小舞台已经搭好，演员坐在塑料凳上描眉，司仪着急地试着音响。数条垂涎欲滴的土狗盘绕在人群周围，等着开席后的赏赐。这是再普通不过的中原百姓生活。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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芒砀山南门并无出租车，只好折返回北门的芒山镇，多花费半小时。芒山镇有不少为旅游开的农家餐馆。没想到芒山镇也无黑车，午餐后只好继续步行半小时抵达“汉兴源”（当地人称“斩蛇碑”）。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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汉兴源又名汉高祖斩蛇处，相传刘邦起义过程中斩死一条白蛇，后梦见老妪哭泣，称“吾子白帝子也，化为蛇，当道，今为赤帝子斩之，故哭。”汉大业遂成。园内倒是多明风建筑。当中是斩蛇碑亭，两侧为西汉、东汉帝王塑像和生平。墙上详细记载了中国历史上有名的农民起义。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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那块被中央电视台反复播出的明代斩蛇碑被一块红绸覆住，相传月圆之夜，这块隆庆五年立的碑会在月光下显现出清晰的斩蛇人像，无数专家实地探访均无果而终。我也趁景区无人跨过栏杆，掀开红绸，开了并无异像。正欲起身离开，地上的一个牌子显得让人吐血，文字明确：此碑为1982年由当地地委书记联合某某书法家复刻！！你一新建的玩意儿，扯那么些神神叨叨的“祥瑞”干嘛？无非是碑身中混入了些荧光物质，是不是故意为之都不好说呢。央视也是瞎起哄，这有啥好报道的，一起造假么？名头最大的景点成了最坑爹景点，失望之极，那种感觉就好比骗你说红头盖下头是林志玲，揭开一看是凤姐。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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联票共六大景点，除三处汉墓位于保安山外，其余三个极为分散且无公共交通，互相间隔三五公里，建议自驾。所幸当地民风极友善，只需路边示意，电动三轮一般都会停下来搭一程，而且分文不取。一位大姐甚至因为车厢全满，让我坐在驾驶座上，扶着另一半把手。抵达陈胜墓，远远可眺望山顶的刘邦巨像。陈胜也是无福，辛苦开创的伟业，被刘邦小儿坐享其成。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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陈胜墓所在地距离砀山很近，《水经注》记载“秦乱，起兵反秦，弗终厥谋死，葬于砀，谥曰隐王也。”墓园以秦汉风格建筑为主，松柏森森。殿堂内有简单的生平介绍，较为无感。目前宿州西南有起义所在涉故台的遗址。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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登上汉式的角楼，一转角被这货吓了一大跳……¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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抵达夫子山时，日已西沉。由于老子是河南鹿邑人，孔子曾问礼老子，因此当地留下了不少儒道二家的传言。一处天然凹陷的石壁相传是孔夫子避雨处。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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此地属夏庄村，小小村中竟然有晚清遗留的文庙，古风盎然，令人颇感意外。几块石碑多为同、光时期遗留。山侧有修缮一新的万仞宫墙和孔子学院。能在此清修数日，想必能静下心来“克己复礼”。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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至此永城芒砀山景区六大景点悉数造访，深感若非自驾游客或者对仿造文物特别感兴趣的人，只需购买保安山套票即可（其后三个景点均为省级文保单位，从头衔上也能看出端倪）。毕竟只有这几座汉墓才是真家伙，有看头。而前几年因造访过徐州的龟山和狮子山两座汉墓，芒砀山汉墓群虽然面积要大上两三倍，却少了些许震撼感，规划也不如徐州用心。¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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重返斩蛇碑（被一老太收取￥5），可搭乘回永城的回头的士（￥15），便捷舒适。多加了￥5车费让司机在百度地图上的永城博物馆下车，却遍寻不着，让我对这一文化大市再度失望。夕阳下，李太白的《梁园吟》仍犹在耳：“荒城虚照碧山月，古木尽入苍梧云。梁王宫阙今安在？枚马先归不相待。”¢nó±ï¦5ÌAwww.0370qmw.com0Hþã„«~—;
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