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《夜过夔门(散文)》

《夜过夔门(散文)》

作者:余海涛


  过奉节时,暮色降临,至白帝城时天已黑透。天是阴天,夜为暗夜,看不清两岸的景物,仅见江岸山上白帝城头孤灯闪动。雾气浓郁,能见度极差,当喇叭里响起女播音员悦耳的嗓音,介绍游轮即将经过夔门,并讲述关于夔门的历史传说时,我始知夔门就在眼前了。
  夔门又名瞿塘关。《方舆胜览》记载:“瞿塘峡,乃三峡之门,两岸对峙,中贯一江,望之如门焉。”杜甫《夔州歌十绝句》其一诗云:“中巴之东巴东山,江水开辟流其间。白帝高为三峡镇,夔州险过百牢关。”刘白羽《长江三日》对夔门有更精细的描述:“激流澎湃,涛如雷鸣,江面形成无数漩涡,船从漩涡中冲过,只听见一片哗啦啦的水声。”难怪郭沫若在《过瞿塘峡》诗中咏述:“滟预已无堆,瞿塘仍可危。岸崖双壁立,峡道九肠回。云彩留军帽,江声隐雾帷。若言风景异,三峡此为魁。”……基于以上文史阅读所得到的粗浅知识,我在三峡之旅的开始,就对夔门充满了神往和期待。哦,长江三峡以神奇壮丽著称于世,而三峡之首的夔门作为三峡皇冠上最灿烂的点睛钻石,一定更雄伟瑰丽,更追魂夺魄吧?
  我从船舱跑向船头,急切切追寻夔门,夜太黑,什么也看不到,只有船顶探照灯的光柱打在两岸石壁的脚下,照出桌面大小的一对光团,反射出冷寂呆板的光亮。看不见“夔门天下雄”的整体风貌和超凡的姿容,仅看到灯光圈出的桌面大小的石壁间满布狰狞鳞绚的怪石。夜风猎猎,给人临阵般的肃杀感。江水咆哮,不停歇地拍打出历史的回声。
  两岸石壁的上方就是夹岸对峙,相距仅百余米的千丈峭壁吗?游轮行驶的方向就是迎夔门而立,随水情变化隐现,曾致千舟万帆面临灭顶之灾,如今早已被炸掉了的夔门的“门槛”——巨礁滟预堆的礁址吗?前方风箱峡北岸上的高山洞穴中,白天可看见怎样的景观呢?夜幕下熟睡着的,被诗圣杜甫形容为“赤甲白盐俱刺天,闾阎缭绕接山巅”的分列两岸的高山正与我失之交臂吗?
  夜依旧黑,黑得伸手不见五指,眼前除了探照灯继续映照出丛丛怪石、刀削般的石壁和浅淡的江雾之外,仍看不到夔门多宽多高多凶多险,也看不清波涛流得多急,只听见江风吼喊得紧,江水咆哮得狂。
  我想:发源于青藏高原,以相当于二十条黄河的年平均流量和洪水期能一夜间水位涨落二十多米的长江,千里东流,纳千川百河,汇巴山蜀水,劈开崇山峻岭,来到夔门——进入长江三峡的大门,便被挤兑成这仅几十米宽的窄窄的一条线了吗?这咆哮的声音,便是千潮万流争生存争自由争发展争实现的浩气冲天的拼搏呐喊和如泣如诉的笑怒歌哭吗?!
  时间在无声地流逝,坚守了千万年,并仍将与天地同在的巍巍夔门悄悄后退。我心跳如鼓,夔门默默无言。
  江水躁动过一阵子后缓和了,广播中说夔门已经过去了。身边的游客发出惆怅的叹息,我心中也充满了遗憾,但转念一想:虽没领略夔门的真面目,但我饱听了夔门的声音,那不同流俗的深沉的怒吼,那发自肺腑的真情的呼唤,那与日月同辉的大自然的天籁,那博大雄浑崇尚自由的不羁灵魂!我进而又想:一目了然的景观总给人以框定感,看不清面目的、模糊的、不确定的风景才给人以充满神秘魅力的美感和震撼,才让人生出无限敬畏、无穷幻想和奇妙感受。
  人来到世上,能看清的事物是有限的。聆听了夔门的心语,触摸到夔门的灵魂,实不枉到此一游。

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Pao Chiao Tung University Library Dongdaemun,hogan rebel
Reporter Gao Yan
 
Morning News yesterday log on the official website of Shanghai Jiaotong University, striking steal the spotlight is a hand-painted postcard campus: spring, blue sky,http://wx.jazzsynth.com/wxcgi/kizai/sunkizai.cgi, petal wind light dance, Minhang campus library Pao quietly waiting for the sea of books students who seek knowledge . On the same day, National Chiao Tung University official micro-top also released,canada goose soldes, including this chart, including "National Chiao Tung University Full HD hand-drawn originals." "Very small fresh", "beautiful!" Netizens hesitate to praise,http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/gion/braun28a5d.html, praise one,http://www.noshironet.jp/bbs2/light.cgi?res=21", and some even said after watching "want to go back to the previous university."
 
The authors of these paintings is junior girls Jiaotong Mechanical College Li Guanqun. She likes movies, like reading novels, usually do not brush Weibo and WeChat. "Today, the circle of friends of friends broke the news to me, give me some praise."
 
Li Guanqun According to reports,http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/waiwai/dw-6900cs-1.html, this is her painted between winter and spring of this year with the creation of a computer. "A month ago, National Chiao Tung University 118 years celebration, these hand-painted is completed before the anniversary, has made a set of 10 postcards on sale. I heard,http://www.sofmap.com, alumni reflect pretty good."
 
Postcard individual Jiaotong landmarks are associated with Li Guanqun learning lives. "Are within my scope of life, like the library, often go to study hall; Eastern upper house right next to my dorm;. Shaw House is the third restaurant I went to the road building," he selected 10 landmark after construction, she began looking for information on the prototype. "If they take pictures, the angle mishandled. So I search the Internet first photo,http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/spark-inc/bike-65w-hb3-1.html, then eleven visits to the field. On the basis of the final photograph, make a scene, color re-creation." It turned out that she feels photograph shows partial Style thick calm, but she thinks it should be flying campus style,http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/ebest-dvd/0000001119101.html, relaxed,canada goose pas cher, so we made a change in tone, "some bright colors, looks not so realistic,[url=http://shop.benesse.ne.jp/mall/disp/sq-?x?r?[+?]http://shop.benesse.ne.jp/mall/disp/sq-?x?r?[+?[/url], a little fantasy." She also include adjustments to the building before the third winding wooden dining on the lake "P" out, so as to achieve the effect of small fresh range of children.
 
Li Guanqun been modestly said that he is an amateur painting who released this hand-painted works of their elective second professional inseparable. "I studied engineering profession. In the second elective professional, schools are encouraged to compare the text of complementary work,air max 90, ARTS complementary, so I took a course in animation. This year we are learning animation third term." She said, but this postcard try one style of painting, then she will be a change of style and subject matter,moncler femme, "always want to explore, walk thing."
 
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